Thierings on Tour

Follow along our journey as our family of 5 from Sydney travel around Australia for 30 weeks.

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    • Day 34 – Quinkan Split Rock Art

      The morning pack up was heavily sped up for this today as it started raining quite a bit, so it was all systems go to get ourselves and our belongings out of the rain and into the van.

      Before we left, the girls wanted to see the green tree frog that had been hanging with us in the showers the day before and luckily he was still there. It’s always interesting to see who might turn up while you are showering 😂

      In some ways the rain was good for the roads as it kept the dust at bay and meant we weren’t all covered in dirt by early morning. Some days it’s hard to tell if my feet are getting tanned or just plain dirty, ha. I’ll take a photo to demonstrate soon…

      The kids didn’t really get a chance to have breakfast before we left and we were hoping that the little cafe at Hope Vale might be open for a bite, but everything seemed to be closed so we were forced to drive on.

      First stop was Isabella Falls, which seemed so lovely! We didn’t swim however as even though the water was clear, there were no signs anywhere and no one else around to share a local’s perspective. Izzy was very happy anyway though!

      Just as we were ready to leave, another van pulled up (from NSW) and we got chatting to the family. It turns out they also have a 9 year old Isabella and are also from Sydney! What are the chances…

      Then it was back on the road and we finally hit some red dirt along the Battlefield Track. It was such a scenic drive and the roads were in great condition after a recent grader.

      We stopped at the Old Laura Homestead, which talked to the history of the first cattle farmers in the area. It’s so interesting to see just how remote a location people all those hundreds of years ago would explore for their cattle stations.

      After that we got to Quinkan Split Rock Art, a site estimated to be anywhere between 14,000 and 34,000 years old. It was a bit of a steep climb up and Chris was very cautious of it being perfect snake territory, but luckily he only saw one off the path on the way back – phew!

      The rock art and the location was so beautiful! It’s amazing to have these giant rock formations with a perfect cave-like structure protected from the elements as a perfect site to preserve ancient storytelling. I loved reading about the different symbols and the girls loved guessing what they were before we “formally” identified them.

      There were two more sites to see and it also gave a great view of the landscape around us from so high up.

      We planned to go a bit further before stopping for lunch, but the signage around Laura was so confusing and it looked like there were two town centres, however it turned out that we had missed the only place to stop for lunch, so we continued onto Hann River Roadhouse.

      After a bite to eat and the girls getting soaked by the sprinkler to cool down we checked out the goats, the distances to nearby places (still a long way to the top!) and decided to head a bit further before stopping for the night.

      When we got to Musgrave Roadhouse we realised that the other Sydney family were also staying there, so we had some very happy girls that finally had similar-aged friends. Our girls played with Bella and Addie whilst it was great to meet some lovely people in Oscar and Sophie. 

      We also checked out the local dam at the roadhouse where a group of small freshwater crocodiles and turtles were well trained to come out to shore in anticipation of some food. We didn’t have any food for them, but the girls loved seeing them so close.

      It was a great evening and a late night for the girls, but we knew how much they loved playing with the girls.

      Kms travelled – 302

    • Day 33 – Bloomfield Track

      It was so nice waking up to the sound of waves breaking on the shore, and it was a beautiful sunrise with a nice view of rhe coloured sands in the distance.

      We got ourselves together, packed a lunchbox and got ready for a big driving day as we had planned to head to the Bloomfield track. It did mean backtracking on ourselves a bit, but it also meant exploring a nice part of Cape Tribulation that we couldn’t do whilst towing the van. 

      We stopped at Black Mountain lookout, a very impressive mountain covered in giant black granite rock. It just looks so out of place with the rest of the surrounding landscape, but is incredible.

      From there it was some crazy windy and steep (!) sections of road along the Bloomfield track. I think in the steepest part it was a 30% incline. You definitely don’t want to do that with the van!

      There was many a river crossing and lots of sections that were being repaired after the heavy rainfalls they have had in recent months. By repairs I mean whole sections of road had been washed away by landslides and needed to be reconstructed with shock Crete and major repairs. I don’t envy them!

      We decided not to go all the way to Kulik where we had previously stopped when coming up from the Daintree and instead made a stop at Cowie beach – in dedication of beloved Cowie family. 

      Jazzy was so excited to find a coconutwith liquid still sloshing around so we grabbed it with us to crack at some stage in the future.
      It was a really cool beach in that the tide was very low and you could walk for ages. The tiny pools of shallow water were also refreshing for dipping feet with no fear of crocs! We all really enjoyed exploring it before having a lunch stop to head back out.

      Next stop was Wujal Wujal falls and as we got to the car park there was a couple leaving who told us that they had seen a croc just sitting, resting on a nearby rock. We spotted it quite easily across the river and it certainly stopped any requests for a swim out.

      The falls themselves were beautiful and looked unusual with the angle of the water cascading down the rocks.

      On our way back to Elim beach we also stopped in Cooktown, where Captain Cook had beached the Endeavour in 1770. We walked around the lookout and also explored the wharf after. A few cheeky prawns with lemon went down a treat with the hungry masses…

      Chris and (sous-chef) Jazzy cooked up a storm tonight with coal roasted jacket potatoes and steak on the menu. We have officially used up the last of the cucumber and I don’t know how the girls will go for so long without eating their favourite thing.


      Kms travelled – 332

    • Day 32 – Elim Beach

      Happy 1 month on the road to us! 

      I can’t believe how quickly time is going, but also how much we have done in 1 month. 

      We finally had a break from van and dummy drama and set off to our first stop along the Cape York Peninsula – towards Elim Beach.

      Just to give you an idea of where we are, here is a rough dot on the map of Australia.

      Screenshot

      There was a lot of interesting terrain around us as we drove, including some back burning along the side of the road. It’s so fascinating to see how much the landscape can change in such a short distance.

      We went to the infamous The Lion’s Den hotel for lunch and the girls loved the idea of writing their names for a wall. Not that we are teaching them to graffiti, it’s just a tradition at the pub.

      After a play at the playground, some food and of course a cold drink for the adults, it was time to head further.

      As we drove through the national park and Hope Vale, there were a lot of wild brumbies on the side of the road. One creek crossing also had a giant turtle shell in the water, even though it absolutely wouldn’t be turtle territory. 

      We arrived at Eddie’s beach camp at Elim beach and it was everything we had heard it was. Beautiful, serene beach sites with amazing views over the coloured sands – so cool! We went for a walk along the beach while it was super low tide so as to have a very clear view of everything around us. Whilst there is a big sand bank and Eddie said the crocs don’t get into these waters, I just can’t help but be extra cautious around these areas.

      It was a wonderfully relaxing place, with pretty sunsets and a nice place to relax by the camp fire at the end of the night.

      Kms travelled – 338

    • Day 31 – Mossman Gorge

      We all woke up early this morning and had time around camp to relax, catch up on some work and homework.

      Then it was time for our Dreamtime tour at Mossman Gorge. We got there early and had a look around the art gallery before it was time to meet our guide. Unfortunately, 5 minutes before the start of the tour, Scarly’s world as she knew it fell apart when her beloved dummy fell in the toilet. Her poor little face looked shocked, anguished and scared all at the same time. Unfortunately that was the end of that as it flushed down the toilet with her efforts of being a big girl in undies. I must say, I was scared for what was to come! It doesn’t matter that I had told her a million times to not have the dummy in her mouth when she went to the toilet, it has happened and I knew it would impact us just as much as her… (insert dramatic music here)

      We met our tour guide, Yanganda or Skip as he introduced himself to us, and we set off on a private bus into Mossman Gorge. The rainforest is estimated to be between 150-200 million years old and its people, the Kuku Yalanji clan are therefore some of the oldest nations in Australia. We started the tour with a smoking ceremony, to connect us to the land and to rid everyone off any bad energy before we walked as one family on the local lands. 

      We were promptly warned that there was a cassowary sighting on the path just a short while earlier today and that if it came to it, Skip would not hesitate to go into hunter mode to protect the group and especially the kids. And also just that there were around 43 species of snakes in this rainforest. 

      We learnt about poisonous plants (one particular that has silica that gets under your skin and the pain is unbearable) and more friendly uses of nature such as the amazing macaran trees (red cedar) that used to grow big enough to become family birth and burial trees. In the past, at birth the placenta would be buried in the roots of the tree and at death the body would be buried in there, along with other family members meaning everyone would be together and this was likely the origin for the term family tree. 

      Skip showed us many different types of boomerangs and its uses from hunting fish and birds to digging the earth. He also explained many survival tips such as how to make as much noise as you can with a rock on the root of the cedar tree (the girls loved this) and how to find your way out if you get stranded and disoriented by following signs of streams. 

      By this stage Scarly had lost the plot wanting to get her dummy and was inconsolable wailing, screaming and crying. Chris and I took turns to console and carry her, hoping she might just be tired and fall asleep but she continued to scream and cry. So the rest of the tour was a little harder to hear (as I’ve also been struggling to hear out of one ear since our last pool trip). The drops I have are not working yet, but I’m hoping I’ll get there!

      Anyway, we learnt how to make fire with a candle but, which uses the nut oil to burn up to 15 minutes and if you have a whole plant you can have fire for a while, so fascinating…We saw the amazing daintree river and all the beautiful boulders around it. The only thing that made Scarly stop screaming was when we got down to the water and Skip made a few different pastes of ochre paint, which she happily painted all over her body and it made her “so beautiful”. Skip also crushed up plants to show how you make natural antiseptic soap (which can also be used on bites) and another root to make deep heat, essentially. I couldn’t believe how much it smelt like it!

      And to top it all off there was damper and tea at the end of the tour. So much to learn in such a short time! Jazzy and Izzy had been at the front the whole time absorbing it all, I just wished we hadn’t had the flushed dummy drama to cause so much trouble…

      At the end of the tour we also hopped off to walk around Mossman gorge a bit ourselves, it truly is such a magical place! 

      Then we headed off in the car towards the 
      Daintree River and to make our way up to Cape Tribulation. We got to cross the river on a pulley ferry, which was cool and the drive was also really nice.

      Again, we encountered the possessed screams of a dummy junky who was not coping with her beloved comforter being gone. I briefly contemplated driving back to the van for the emergency dummy we have with us, but also it seemed like it was a sign to finally pull the plug and get rid off the thing for good, like we have been trying for months. Poor Jazzy and Izzy did not cope well with the noise and the screaming and I felt like everyone was going mad and would crack.

      However we made it to Kulki and a walk on the beach was a godsend reprieve for everyone. The kids ran around, dug in the sand and the only thing that would have made it better is if we could have jumped in the water had it not been croc-infested (potentially). It seems like such a waste to have all these beautiful beaches and not being able to swim at them!!! 

      We walked up to the lookout and then started the drive back home. Promised of ice cream and some other distractions got us back to camp in one piece and we even had the hot water system part waiting for us – finally something positive.

      I think it’s safe to say that everyone was exhausted and we had a quick dinner followed by bed. Scarly even did really well in the night without her dummy.

      Kms travelled – 145

    • Day 30 – Cape bound

      Today started with yet more chores, including filling all the Jerry cans we have with additional diesel, partly to get good quality diesel from high traffic areas and partly to save some money. We’ve read stories of diesel being close to $3/l as you get up into Cape York Peninsula so $1.78/l seems like a real bargain when you’ve got 180l to fill.

      It’s been nice having another 3 day stint of not packing up the van. We had to replace a stabiliser leg on the van, although the one that arrived was damaged in transit. Chris managed a workaround but trying to now get a replacement sent as we are about to set off into remote country will be even harder. We can’t organise a parcel locker as there are no major towns around, but hopefully one of the post offices in Cape York can hold it for us, if it gets there in time as we travel through.

      We also have been chasing a hitch lock for weeks and had to go on a bit of a detour to finally buy one that was in stock. By this stage the car passengers were getting a bit restless, and I’m sure the blog readers are getting bored of all these chores, so it’s time to focus on the road.

      The coastal road up the highway is just beautiful, it winds around hugging the ocean with amazing rainforests and wpmountains ranges to the left. It’s actually a very unique place where two UNESCO world heritage sites meet – the Daintree rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef

      Whilst we initially planned to go to Mossman Gorge today, by the time we arrived we would have been too rushed, so instead we decided to book in for a Dreamtime walking tour for tomorrow instead and headed off to set up camp for the night.

      Camp was at the back of a golf course with huge fields of sugarcane right behind us.

      Just then, Chris realised that there was water pouring out from under the van. He quickly found a leak under our main bed from the hot water pressure valve (or something like that), and managed to stop it. Now trying to find a replacement part turned out to be much more problematic given we had left the last major town. 

      Whilst Chris and the girls chased a replacement part I had some meetings and finished off some work. When they came back, the news was that the part  would have to come from Cairns, but luckily the amazing guy Chris spoke to arranged a courier to drive it up to us the next day! It just meant we would have to stay an extra night, but in the grand scheme of things, that’s no issue and at least we would have water for the remote parts where we absolutely need to have our own water! Phew, lucky I have such a clever, handy mechanic for a husband.

      The girls kept busy with duplo and a bit of homework and before we knew it, we were into the regular dinner and bed routine. Another left-wing, adventurous in the wrong kind of way day, but let’s hope there’s more fun to come!

      Kms travelled – 140

    • Day 29 – Chores and Chilling

      Today was a day of chores and a bit of chilling thrown in. Chris had the car booked in for a service and I had a morning of work booked in at Cairns Hospital.

      So we got out early and had a convoluted system of dropping each other off so that we weren’t too far away from fun stuff for the kids and it wasn’t too far for the adults from where they needed to be. The logistical coordination on this trip is testing my skills!

      We found an awesome playground along Cairns Esplanade that had it all – climbing equipment, slides, every kind of swinging contraption imaginable and a mini splash park. I actually remember taking Izzy here when she was around 3 years old and she had the best time! The girls all loved it and made a new friend along the way. It was a good way to burn energy and best of all, there was great coffee just next door!

      Then it was time to part ways while I worked and Chris took the girls out to the movies to see Lilo & Stitch.

      After I met them back in the city a few hours later we grabbed lunch and Chris then collected the car.
      We posted a big bag of stuff home, as we are still culling the contents of the van. There’s just not enormous enough space for it all and so trying to be practical about what it is that we will use.

      We headed back to camp to finish off a few more chores and start preparing for the big trek up to Cape York over the next couple of weeks starting tomorrow. It feels like there is so much more planning to do given the remoteness of the area so I did a massive shop, Chris checked a few things on the car and the girls kept busy at camp (although it seems they never want to keep busy with homework).

      To finish the day on a high, we got to enjoy time in the pool. Scarly was a little daredevil this time wanting to go down the little water slide almost by herself (just holding my hand rather than being held) and she kept asking to go on the big one over and over again. All the kids loved it and we just wished we had been able to spend more time at the park to enjoy all it has to offer – I don’t think we even scratched the surface.

      Not the most thrilling day for anyone following along, but I’m sure there’s more fun stuff to come!

      Kms travelled – 27

    • Day 28 – The Great Barrier Reef

      An early morning start with a purpose today! We were heading out to the Great Barrier Reef, the girls have been excited about this for days.

      Everyone had a quick brekkie, the essential caffeine fix for the adults and off we headed to Cairns Marina. There was a bit of waiting around between check in and actual boarding, which also brought a noticeable change in weather and notably wind. I was just hoping that it wouldn’t ruin the day 🤞

      We boarded the ship and managed to get a spot right at the front of the top deck behind the captain’s cabin. Hopefully we could get some insider info on the day… so when I got the chance I asked him about the weather and his response did not fill me with confidence.
      You know things might get uncomfortable when the captain declares the seas are “rough as guts” just before departure but he went on to reassure me that it’s nothing the boat can’t handle. However he also wasn’t so confident about the people on the boat. Great 😳

      It quickly lived up to its name and poor Scarly fell victim first to the rough seas. She was very good about it, she’d spit out the dummy and that was our cue to get to vomit bag ready for her. Poor darling! Luckily she slept for the second, rough half of the trip and I’m really shocked that my weak stomach managed to hold it together whilst I had Scarly and Jazzy both unwell wanting to be held and cuddled. At least Chris managed to keep Izzy out of trouble by taking her on the outside deck for fresh air.

      However eventually we got to the Moore Reef pontoon. It was a lot more protected from the wind and the sea breeze seemed like a welcome change! To steady ourselves we decided not to jump straight in the water but to explore the semi submersible submarine. What a brilliant way for Scarly and the other girls to get a taste for the rest of the day and just what is in the water.

      We were so lucky to see a green sea turtle straight away as well as lots of coral and fish. The girls were all suited and ready to go into the water in their stinger suits (even though the season for them is considered to be over). Oh well easier than tones of sunscreen anyway!

      Scarly insisted on coming in the water also and was rather upset that there were no flippers small enough for her, ha ha. She even put on the mask, but refused to use the snorkel. Like a koala bear she was on my back whilst we swam out over the reef. Jazzy and Izzy got the hang of breathing through the snorkel rather quickly and did so well in the water!

      Again we saw a green sea turtle and a giant roper fish too. I think the size of it freaked the girls out a bit, but they were fascinated. Scarly didn’t want to stay in the water long, so Chris and I took turns going in for a snorkel with the big girls.

      The coral looked amazing! Despite the lack of sun, I still feel like it was much more impressive than the last time we visited the Great Barrier Reef. So many colours, species of coral and amazing schools of fish everywhere. It’s so easy to get lost in time.

      After lunch we decided to check out the glass bottom boat, which was so much better than I thought. It seemed that it would be hard to beat snorkeling over the reef, but it provided an amazing close up of so many species of coral and Scarly really enjoyed herself.

      As the afternoon was closing in on us Izzy and I decided to jump in for one more snorkel and we saw the turtle again, the giant roper fish and so much beautiful coral! How special and I’m so proud of Izzy for how well she did snorkelling in somewhat choppy waters and for so long.

      Then it was time to head back to shore. Everyone was a bit apprehensive about the state of the ride back but it was actually fine and Scarly just couldn’t keep her eyes open and dozed off again. As hard as I tried to wake her, she snoozed so peacefully and I tried to ignore the fact that she would be a little crazy girl at bedtime now having slept until 5pm 🫣

      The older girls enjoyed the sea spray and watching the islands as the boat zoomed past them back to the marina.

      We quickly grabbed sushi for dinner and everyone was rather tired (and somewhat emotional at bedtime as predicted), but we got there and it was so worth it. The girls rated their day a 9.7 and a 9 out of 10, only losing marks for tough seas and forgetting to go on the pontoon waterslide.

      So all in all, a truly magical day!

      Kms travelled – 16 (by car, no idea how many nautical miles by boat)

    • Day 27 – Cairns

      This morning was freezing! Which was an unusual change from recent weeks and not one we want to stick around… 

      We packed up with the help of the girls. Jazzy has been loving washing up, so us adults are embracing this wave of enthusiasm 😉🤭

      Before leaving the Atherton Tablelands we finally got to Malanda Falls and the girls loved exploring the amazing information / visitor centre. So many things to learn, touch and explore! In fact the girls didn’t want to leave… I was really hoping we might see a real tree kangaroo around the falls, but it was only the three that belong in our van that popped their cheeky heads out!

      It was a beautiful drive out and I enjoyed seeing some new plantations around – coffee, some banana, but also avocado. What a place for fresh produce.

      As we headed closer to Cairns we saw the turnoff to Barron Falls and Kurunda Village. Wow, what a vibe the village had! Sort of like a tropical Byron and some very cool shops, cafes and everyone just seemed to be happy (but not in a Byron kinda way, ha). Sadly there weren’t any caravan parking spots around so we continued on to the falls.

      The path led us through a very high and slightly scary treetop walk to a very impressive viewing platform! I had no idea these falls were going to be so high… I can definitely see why the scenic railway makes a stop there also.

      After some rather windy downhills parts we were back on our way to Cairns and made it to the park just in time for a quick set up and time in the pool!
      Chris had arranged a catch up with a mate in town he had worked with at Qantas Link whilst the girls and I headed for a dip in the pool. I loved their approach here – they heat it in winter and cool it in summer. As a parent who very much has to be in the water with Scarly still, I appreciated the heated pool!

      All the girls had an absolute ball going down the water slides and swimming. Even little Scarly upgraded from the yellow little slide with mama to racing down the orange one after her sisters (on mama’s lap still, of course).

      What a fun way to wrap up the afternoon!

      Kms travelled – 126

    • Day 26 – Waterfall circuit

      This morning was an early start for me as I had organised a training session for work with an incredible local mum, who is becoming an ambassador for Stem Cell Donors Australia. 

      The best part of my job by far is meeting so many amazing people, many of whom seem to have found the most inspiring source of strength through some of the most adverse times you can imagine. Anj from This Strong Mum is no exception! It was so great to finally meet Anj and Donna after chatting on the phone for all these months. What incredible women and what a hoot of a morning, I don’t think I’ve ever laughed so much during a training session before… plus we had delicious treats and gorgeous views – an inspiring start to the day! 

      Back at camp Chris and the girls explored Malanda Falls caravan park, which also has a little animal farm section. I’m told the goats were rather cheeky and jumped the fence in an attempt to snatch the feed they had! A bit of homework, a bit of washing and I was back in no time to join them with the promise of a swim…

      As an afternoon treat we headed to the various waterfalls in the area – it’s not called waterfalls circuit for nothing! With Scarly and Jazzy asleep initially, Chris and Izzy explored Zillie Falls.

      Then Jazzy woke up from her Power Nap and so her and I got to explore Ellinjaa Falls, whilst Chris and Izzy watched Scarly. I think you could spend a week in the area swimming and exploring a new waterfall every day and still not get through them all! The Atherton Tablelands is such a gorgeous part of the world.

      Millaa Millaa Falls was the final destination for our afternoon swim and it was impressive! Although also the first stop where we had to share the place with a busload of other tourists… I actually said to Chris recently that it’s been so lovely exploring in the off-season where sometimes we are the only people at these amazing spots!!

      Chris swam out and went under the waterfall. I can only imagine the roar and power of it straight under, as I felt like I was getting pushed out when I swam a bit closer to it. Really makes you feel so small…

      The girls found the water a bit too cold, so didn’t really swim too much (I think that’s a first!). We headed back to camp, finished off a bit more work and homework before it was officially the weekend! Chris and I decided that it might be nice to go out for dinner tonight so we all grade into town to The Big Pub. It really was big and very historic.

      Kms travelled – 90

    • Day 25 – Undara Lava Tubes

      This morning brought a 6am start, which was extra challenging for some of our late night party people who went to bed far later than they should have and normally do… cue send all the coffee to get us through an emotional rollercoaster filled day!

      We were on the road by 6.45am heading to Undara National Park, and driving through the Atherton Tablelands so early was rather spectacular! The mist over the mountains was magical and photos really don’t do it justice, but here are a couple attempts from the car…

      It was a very long drive and whilst I worked through some emails the girls watched a movie on the iPad.

      We arrived at the departure point and hopped on our tour bus, which Scarly just thought was the best! (My poor deprived child!) it was a short drive to the national park and lava tubes from here and we saw some cute little wallaroos in the bush around us.

      We got to hear a little more about the history and geology of the area. A few fun facts summarised below:
      – volcano estimated to have formed about 300 million years ago
      – volcano last active between 2.7-8 million years ago
      – the lava would flow out of the top of the volcano and crust over as the outer layers cooled whilst the hotter inner part was still flowing and thus create the lava tubes we have today 
      – lava was about 1,200C hot but to melt granite you need 1,600C

      The first lava tube we went to was absolutely incredible! A giant arch of rock carved out millions of years ago with the most amazing patterns resembling marbling. It’s hard to fathom that once lava would have been flowing through it forming this cave / lava tube. With all the unusually high rainfall they have had in the area (1,600mm instead of around 700mm annual) there was a lot of water still at the back of the cave and so we could only go about half way in past the main archway.

      Then it was a short walk across to the second lava tube. What I thought was fascinating is the landscape at the top… it’s all arid and dry, and then you have these lush almost rainforest like greenery right around the lava tubes! 

      Scarly loved the echo in all the tubes, which made the guide’s job a little harder trying to talk over our loud little megaphone and meant that she had to frequently stand outside of the cave with mama until the presentation part was finished 😜.

      The last lava tube went in very deep and everyone got a torch to explore. There were some little bats in there and with the water pooled so still it made some amazing patterns and reflections.

      By the end of the tour the kids were rather restless and add to that yesterday’s late night and a long drive, we all had a long afternoon ahead of us. Working when we got back was a reprieve. Ha 

      Anyway, in other exciting news – Izzy has finished all the Harry Potter books – what an end of an era…

      Kms travelled – 350 (biggest driving day yet! Lucky it was without the van though)

    • Day 24 – Babinda Boulders and Josephine Falls

      We had a good start to the morning with Jazzy feeling much better and a general happy vibe at camp! The girls wanted to explore the beach to see if they could find any cassowaries this morning so off we went in our pyjamas (because why not?) to go for a walk along the beach. We didn’t see any, but it was still a gorgeous place to explore.

      The girls were fascinated by this little green grasshopper who was perched up in the shower block watching everyone closely. I just love how his eyes look like he is legit spying on you, ha ha.


      Back at camp Chris decided to treat us to bacon & eggs, but as he was cooking the BBQ the heavens opened and we had to scramble to put as much as we could away before we got soaked. The rain really does add so much complexity to the equation for adults, however the kids embraced it as a chance to throw on the gumboots, waterproof splash pants and their rain jackets 😂
      At least that helped Chris and I to pack up more quickly and hit the road for the day.

      Babinda Boulders was our first spot and it looked great. There are a number of swimming spots in the National Park here surrounded by giant boulders. Yes, my mum would be in heaven 🙂 
      The water was cool, but so refreshing and the girls are finally getting used to swimming in water holes rather than just swimming pools! My favourite was the second section we went to, where you could swim across the river from one giant boulder to another. Whilst the girls were a bit apprehensive at first, they loved jumping in and swimming across by themselves by the end of our time there. What a fun experience for them!

      To relish in their swimming achievements we stopped at Babinda Bakery for some sausage rolls and everyone got to pick a treat. $61 lighter everyone was stuffed full of sugar and we headed on to the falls. Feeding these kidlets out and about is quickly adding up to be one of our top expenses on the trip…

      Josephine falls has a number of viewing platforms and we enjoyed exploring all of them. It’s amazing how powerful the sound of the water is, especially right at the bottom of the cascade before it trickles down to the lower levels. 
      The girls were desperate to go for a swim here too, but the many warning signs about potential dangers and needing to be confident swimmers put an end to that request. Instead we admired the view from every platform and found a natural vine/tree swing which the girls loved testing out.

      Heading onto Malanda in the Atherton Tablelands was a challenging road with the van. So many hills to ascend and descend and so many turns. It’s certainly a good test for some of the tricky roads ahead as we start making our way towards the tip of Australia soon.

      We reached Malanda Falls Caravan Park and set up for the our first 3 night stay of the trip! Can’t wait to stay put in one place for so long and not have to pack up and set up the van for a few days… yay!

      Chris let the girls stay up for State of Origin, which whilst fun at the time ended up being rather a handful when we had to put two overtired kids to bed at 10.30pm 😳never again!!!

      Kms travelled – 177

    • Day 23 – Cassowary Coast

      Our little Jazzy wasn’t feeling great and had a very rough night (and us worried) with spiking a temp and feeling rather feverish at the same time. So it was all about rest and fluids for her while we packed up yet again (gosh these 1 night stays are killing me!). To soften the blow we grabbed a nice coffee in town and the girls were given the fanciest looking babycinos – lucky!

      As we set off north we stopped at Hinchinbrook lookout, which gives incredible views of the entire area. The girls also found some bright red leaves, such as vivid colour that I have never seen in nature before. 

      Izzy has been learning about The First Fleet with Sydney distance education and travelling through this area has been perfect for her to see the many places that are mentioned throughout the module.

      Our first major stop for the day was Cardwell Spa Pools, natural pools of the most spectacular colours! And they did not disappoint…
      Even though Jazzy still wasn’t feeling the best, she enjoyed a refreshing swim with the rest of us. It was perfect, because it was mostly shallow and you could stand in most places, which gave the girls confidence. The water was crystal clear and so beautiful! I could have stayed much longer.

      Then we headed to Etty Bay Beach, as I had read that they get a lot of wild cassowaries wondering around daily. The spot was perfect – beach front, nice breeze and such a relaxing vibe.

      While I had a few meetings and work to finish off, Chris took the girls to the park and for a stroll along the beach. 

      I joined them just in time to see our first wild cassowary strolling along the beach! 
      We were trying to get some good photos without getting too close, but it actually turned out to be quite the curious thing and Chris had to manoeuvre out of its way in the end. How cool to see one in the wild!

      Whilst I took the girls for a shower Chris was surprised to hear noise at the camp only to turn around and see the cassowary eat the corn thins that are the girls’ beloved afternoon snack with a slice of cheese. And we had only just opened a packet! Lesson learnt – do not leave food out unattended even if you are just going from the van to the car…

      Although the girls thought it was both outrageous and funny that the cassowary had stolen their food. I think Jazzy forgave it straight away when she got a close up photo with it though.

      The girls insisted on eating our dinner at the beach, which was probably not very practical but it made them happy and we all know – happy kids, easier bedtime routine! 🤪

      Kms travelled – 162

    • Day 22 – Creeks and Cascades

      The Townsville heat really turned it on this morning, it was already boiling hot by 8am as we were packing up. The girls got to enjoy some pool time and practice their diving and underwater swimming. These fish would be happy to do a tour of all the pools in Australia without ever seeing anything else!

      We headed off to the first stop for the day – Big Crystal Creek, recommended to us by my sister. What a beautiful spot with clear, refreshing water and gorgeous views all around! It was a new and slightly different experience for the girls swimming in a creek and poor Jazzy was freaking out about the fish she could see thinking they were going to bite her. But they didn’t and we had a great cool off during our lunch break stop followed by sandwiches at the van.

      Unfortunately a lot of the nearby swimming spots and nice walks in the area are currently closed due to some major landslides in the area following big recent rains. One of the guys working on traffic control at the side of the road said that about 10m of road has been washed away in a spot that plummets at least 80m below. Which means that the residents are having to do 140kms trips one way every day to get to work in Townsville. 

      From there we headed to Ingham and dropped the van at a rest area where we would be staying for the night. We then headed to Wallaman Falls by car only as the road looked a little too undulating for my liking to take the van. That was a good idea as the road had some very sharp hairpin turns!

      Wallaman Falls is the highest, permanent, single drop waterfall in Australia and it certainly didn’t disappoint! Wow, what a beautiful sight and all the recent rain probably added to the magic. It was very impressive! Seeing waterfalls always gives me such a sense of perspective of size and force of nature compared to humans… 
      There was an option to go down to the bottom of the fall, but one of the local ladies I spoke to said it was not recommended with kids so I promised Jazzy we would come back together when she is older. My poor adventure girl is keen on all the hikes, but disappointed we haven’t been able to do some of them recently!

      Heading back into town Chris had to run to Super cheap, so the girls and I explored a bit of local history in mosaic lane. It’s incredible to read about the history of the sugar cane industry and how physical the work was back in the days without all the modern machinery. I’m also amazed at just how much sugarcane there is every time we drive somewhere. I feel like that’s all we’ve seen for hundreds of kms now… Now a quick Google shows that it’s in fact 30-35 million tonnes a year! 😳

      Then we couldn’t go past the “original pub with no beer”, which now thankfully sells beer! The girls were disappointed to hear that the “game machines” that looked so enticing (pokies) were for adults only, but luckily the lady behind the counter had a stash of colouring in paper and pencils to keep them busy while Chris and I enjoyed our beverages.

      Back at camp we had to be swift with our dinner as the mosquitoes and other bugs were out in full force again and we were still recovering from Cape Hillsborough! 

      Kms travelled – 244

    • Day 21 – Bowen – a hidden gem!

      We had a lazy start to the day, including a nice walk on the beach with Jazzy while the others enjoyed a sleep in.

      After some breakfast on the beach – yes, I could do this every day! It was time to pack up yet again so that we could enjoy Bowen a little more before we had to make our way towards Townsville. The girls have been getting involved with various jobs such as winding up the stabiliser legs on the van for Jazzy, packing up the chairs for Scarly (with some help) and locking up the many drawers for Izzy. Not always, but every bit helps and if there is the incentive of extra time in the pool or the beach, it certainly helps to speed up the process! 😉

      We checked out Grays Beach and a few others for our morning swim, but Horseshoe Bat was just too pretty to pass on. The water was just perfect for a dip and the backdrop was beautiful! Another pinch me moment for our trip, getting to enjoy this with the entire family…

      Even Scarly braved the water to jump on my back and kick her legs. She is really getting so much more water confident, which is lovely to see!
      We also built some sandcastles with her and decorated them with washed up coral we had found. A delicious coffee from the cafe across the road completed the perfect morning vibe!

      Jazzy and I really wanted to check out another lookout but it turned out that it involved a grade 4 hike, not something we were dressed or prepared for this time round. I’ll definitely be back to explore though! We went back to grab the van and of course the girls managed to swindle one more swim in the pool before we set off.

      We were headed to Billabong Sanctuary for a turtle feeding and a croc show, but it was going to be a tight squeeze to get there on time. After one of our roadside stops to admire the sugar cane (yes that is code for a kids pit stop) we drove off only for Chris to realise that he had dropped one of his AirPods in the hay as he jumped out of the car to help Jazzy. So back we went to look for an AirPod in a haystack… Jazzy was inconsolable thinking this meant she would miss the turtle feeding and I really didn’t have high hope for us, but as miracles go – this was one of them and Chris found it.

      We made it to the turtle feeding with minutes to spare and all was well in the world. It was so bizarre seeing all these little turtles swim up to shore and march up like an army of hungry soldiers. They clearly know what is about to happen and would follow people as they were handed the pieces of fish to feed the turtles. The girls were fascinated!

      It was so hot, wow you really feel the burn of the sun up here! The Billabong Sanctuary had so many cool animals, but I particularly enjoyed that many of the birds were left to roam freely knowing they would come back.

      As we walked around we saw an absolute beast of a saltwater crocodile sunning himself just next to the enclosure. This guy was huge!!! Estimated to be around 5m long and wieighing around 1,000kgs. I have never seen a croc so close up and it was both fascinating and scary at the same time. You can see why they have been around for so many millions of years, they are just so well designed to be the most dominant in their food chain.

      Then it was time for the croc show. The caretakers fed chickens on a stick to him whilst his jaw made high loud popping noises every time he bit down. Apparently they have the strongest bite in the entire animal kingdom – this is not a forte of mine, but something about 16,000N per square cm. Basically, if it bites you, you have no chance! That’s all I needed to know and the girls listened VERY carefully throughout the show and have confirmed that they will not be going near any waterways for the rest of the trip without permission and confirmation of croc safe places. Perfect!

      After the sanctuary we quickly set up the van and had a few errands to run such as Bunnings and Dan Murphy’s (priorities!). You’ve really got to plan so much more when on the road to have all the food, drink and car/van supplies on hand, especially the more remote you go. On our way back we stopped at the caravan park bar and the lady kindly gave the girls some food for the turtles. These were the same cheeky ones as at the zoo and they came in swarms!

      Kms travelled – 189


    • Day 20 – Leaving sandfly capital

      The morning brought a lot of pain and suffering from all the sandfly bites the girls and I had all over our arms and legs. Now we thought 1770 was bad, but this was next level! People could easily think we have a much more sinister disease if we didn’t specify it was sandflies and the itching was crazy! Both the older girls have got to the point where they are in so much pain, their bites start bleeding from all the scratching. I think I’ve spent half oh my nights waking up I’m so itchy and sore. So we are trying all the creams and remedies we can find out about….

      We packed up, had a play at the playground (cue more sandflies!) and then it was time to head further north.

      We settled on Bowen as our destination for the night as it involved us making adequate progress on our planned route, but also had some beautiful spots from what we had seen.
      For those wondering, we have a rough week by week plan to get from A to B to ensure we are back in time by the end of week 30, but within those weeks we have no set timeframes and I have been known to book campsites 15 minutes before we arrived at them. On the rare occasion it is a free camp, it doesn’t matter so much, of course. So I’ve definitely had to let go of some of my control freak tendencies on this trip! It might change a bit as we get closer to some of my work events and also in WA where there seems to be a lot more travelling families and crazy bookings 180 days in advance by some people. Anyway, I digress!

      On our way out of Cape Hillsborough we stopped at one more walk, the Diversity Circuit. It was a leisurely stroll through rainforest, mangroves, past boulders and through nature. A good way for the girls to stretch their legs before our big driving stint for the day. It was also nice not to have to worry about school and homework in the car…

      Just before we arrived in Bowen, we stopped for a token tourist photo with the Big Mango. We really aren’t doing that great stopping at all the “Big” things. You could feel the heat and the girls were looking forward to a swim at the pool.

      This time I was sensible and had a click & collect Woolies order ready for us, meaning no fighting at the shops. Instead we arrived at an absolute cracker of a spot at Bowen. The pool didn’t need to be huge or have waterslides, it was a big hit!

      Once they had splashed enough (in our opinion, never theirs) we headed off to explore a few more spots around Horseshoe Bay and the cape. There were so many beautiful spots everywhere… I would definitely come back here for a holiday!

      We parked up at Horseshoe bay and decided to walk up to the lookout for a better view of the beach from above. There were so many amazing boulders and I won’t lie, I was wanting to photograph them all for my mum.

      The very top platform was even more amazing. Perched up on top of a platform overlooking the bay, the amazing views out to see and Bowen down below. What a gorgeous view!

      Scarly did really well walking by herself on this trek and happily declared she wanted to go on more. But it was getting a bit late, so after a quick swing at the park (I’d say in competition with Grays Point for swing with the best view) it was time to head back and enjoy a sunset drink and some chippies watching the sun set on Day 20 of our trip. It was pretty overcast so there wasn’t much of a photo opp this time.


      Kms travelled – 180